Watch Buying Guide – Expert Tips for Finding the Perfect Timepiece

Timeless advice to help you choose a watch that suits your style, needs, and budget.

Watch Buying Guide

Whether you're looking to become a watch wearer yourself, or already are but want to deepen your knowledge about timepieces, this comprehensive guide is for you. From understanding the intricacies of different movements to exploring the heritage of various watch styles, we'll cover everything you need to know about choosing and wearing this timeless accessory.

At Malani Jewelers, we believe a watch is more than just a timekeeper—it's a statement of personal style, a piece of mechanical art, and often a treasured heirloom passed down through generations.

Explore Watch Movements

The heart of every timepiece

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Mechanical Movement

The Traditional Art of Timekeeping

A mechanical watch has a movement that's powered by a mainspring—a coiled wire of metal—that is wound by hand. Once the mainspring is wound, it slowly and evenly unwinds, causing the second hand to move in a smooth, sweeping motion around the watch's face.

Most mainsprings are about 9-13 inches long. The longer the mainspring, the longer your mechanical watch's power reserve, and the longer you can go between windings. Not all mechanical movements are created equal. The attention to detail and craftsmanship that goes into a watch will determine its smoothness and accuracy.

For many aficionados, mechanical movement watches represent the crème de la crème of timepieces due to their traditional pedigree and the intricate work and engineering that must go into creating them. For these enthusiasts, owning a mechanical watch isn't just about telling time, it's a way to express their appreciation for history, refinement, and craftsmanship.

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Mechanical Movement
Hand-wound mainspring powers intricate gears
✓ Advantages
  • No battery needed - Because a mechanical watch is powered by a hand-wound mainspring, you'll never have to go to a jeweler to replace a battery. When the watch stops ticking, just wind it up.
  • Smooth hand movement - For some folks, a smooth sweeping movement on the second hand is more aesthetically pleasing than the "tick tick tick" of quartz watches.
  • Character - The engineering and work that goes into a mechanical watch is breathtaking. Inside your watchcase are tiny gears and springs that work together to give you the time.
  • Tactile - For some, one of the appeals of a mechanical watch is that the owner must hand-wind it to keep it working. There's something about the ritual of winding your watch at the end of the day that connects you more with time.
✗ Considerations
  • Requires regular winding - While most mechanical watch mainsprings can go two days without winding, it's recommended that you wind it once a day.
  • Sensitive to the environment - Moisture, dust, shocks, and magnets are the Four Horsemen of the Mechanical Watch Apocalypse. Thankfully, most modern varieties have been designed to withstand these elements.
  • Not as accurate - While a well-crafted mechanical watch can keep time to 99.999% accuracy (about +/- 1 second a day), with age and use that accuracy starts to taper off. You'll need tune-ups every 5 to 10 years.
  • Expensive - All that craftsmanship and precision engineering that goes into a mechanical watch is going to cost you extra. While there are some good mechanical watches in the sub-$500 range, most are more than that.
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Automatic Movement

Self-Winding Innovation

Automatic watches are pretty much just like mechanical—they're powered by a mainspring and use intricate gears to move the watch hands—but they don't require the user to hand-wind the watch to keep it ticking. Instead, your movement throughout the day winds up the mainspring while you wear the watch. Hence, the name "automatic movement." They're also known as "self-winding" watches.

How does an automatic movement watch self-wind? Well, there's a small weight inside the watch called a "rotor" that moves as your wrist moves throughout the day. It's connected to the mainspring and winds the mainspring as it moves. Automatic watches also have a slipping clutch device to prevent the watch from getting over-wound while you're wearing it.

If you're not wearing your automatic watch, you'll want to put it in a watch winder. It's a little device that moves the watch in a circular motion while it's stored so it stays wound. This is particularly important to do if your watch has features like a calendar or date display. For example, let's say your automatic watch has a calendar on it, but you decide not to wear it for a few days. If you don't store it in a winder, the power will run down and the display will get stuck on the time and date the watch stopped ticking.

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Automatic Movement
Rotor winds mainspring with wrist movement
✓ Advantages
  • No battery needed - Just like mechanical watches, powered by a mainspring
  • Don't have to wind it by hand - If having to hand-wind a mechanical watch bothers you, but you still want the sophistication of a mechanical watch, an automatic watch is a nice compromise
  • Smooth movement - Just like manually-wound mechanical watches, automatic watches have a nice, smooth hand movement
  • Character - The same amount of engineering and craftsmanship goes into an automatic watch as a mechanical watch
✗ Considerations
  • Sensitive to the environment - The same environmental factors that can foil a mechanical watch can gum up an automatic watch
  • Needs to be stored in a watch winder when not in use - While an automatic watch doesn't require winding if you wear it regularly, if you don't, you'll need to store it in a watch winder
  • Less accurate - A well-crafted automatic watch can be as accurate as a well-crafted mechanical watch, but it will lose some accuracy over time and need tune-ups
  • Expensive - Same issue as mechanical watches. Craftsmanship and engineering ain't cheap!
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Quartz Movement

Precision Through Technology

If you're like most average Joes, the watch on your wrist right now is probably a quartz watch. There's a reason for that. Quartz watches are incredibly accurate and very affordable.

Instead of being powered by a wound mainspring, a quartz movement uses electricity from a small battery. The battery sends the electricity through a small quartz crystal, causing the crystal to vibrate 32,768 times per second. The vibrations are measured by a circuit, which converts the vibration into a pulse, which moves the second hand on the watch. Because quartz watches use electric pulses to move the second hand, they have a distinctive "tick tick tick" movement. It's not as smooth as a mechanical or automatic watch.

Because quartz movements rely on electricity and fewer moving parts, they're much more accurate and can withstand far more of a beating than mechanical or automatic watches. It's for this reason that most "sport" and "field" watches use a quartz movement.

Quartz movements are also dirt-cheap. $4 can get you a watch that keeps time like a champ. Of course, if you want something with a bit more panache, you'll need to spend more.

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Quartz Movement
Crystal vibrations ensure perfect timekeeping
✓ Advantages
  • Accurate time - Quartz is by far the most accurate of all the movements. Will never lose or add seconds throughout the day
  • Less maintenance - Besides changing the battery every year or so, there's little maintenance you have to perform on a quartz movement watch
  • Durable - Because they have few moving parts, a quartz watch can "take a licking and keep on ticking." It's not as susceptible to the Four Horsemen of the Watch Apocalypse
  • Affordable - You can get quartz watches for as cheap as a few bucks. Though nicer looking ones can cost into the hundreds of dollars, they're almost always cheaper than mechanical and automatic varieties
✗ Considerations
  • No smooth movement - The staggered movement of the second hand on a quartz watch isn't as smooth as that of a mechanical or automatic watch
  • Less romantic - The biggest con of quartz watches is that they lack the charm, character, and romance of mechanical watches because they lack the history, technical craftsmanship, and engineering such timepieces possess

Watch Complications

Your basic wristwatch tells you the time. But many wristwatches come with features that also display the date or even the phase of the moon. These little extras on wristwatches are called "complications."

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Calendar/Date

The most common complication, showing the current date through a window or subdial. Some watches also include day, month, and year displays.

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Moon Phase

Displays the current phase of the moon, adding astronomical elegance to your watch. A romantic complication favored by dress watches.

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Chronograph

A separate and independent time system which serves as a stopwatch. Most chronographs consist of three small dials (sub-registers) within the main dial. Two buttons on the case control start/stop and reset functions.

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Minute Repeater

A feature that chimes the hour and minutes on your watch at the press of a button. One of the most complex and prestigious complications.

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Alarms

Built-in alarm functionality for reminders and wake-up calls. Common in sport and tool watches.

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Power Reserve Indicator

Shows how much power remains in the mainspring of mechanical and automatic watches before requiring winding.

The Chronograph & Tachymeter

On some watches, a chronograph is paired with a tachymeter—a scale inscribed around the rim of a watch. Using the chronograph and tachymeter together allows a user to calculate all sorts of things like speed, distance traveled, or fuel consumption (when you're driving or flying).

How many and which complications you want in a watch is a matter of preference. Dressier watches tend to be sleek and have one (usually the date) to none. More sporty and casual watches often include more complications.

Men's Watch Style Dossiers

While there are a plethora of functional men's wristwatches out there from rubber sport watches you'd wear while running a 5K to tactical digital watches with a bunch of wiz-bang features, we're going to focus on wristwatches you'd wear to class up an outfit. When it comes to stylish men's wristwatches, there are basically five types: dress, field, diver, aviator, and racing.

Dress Watches

Elegance and Sophistication

History/Pedigree/Personality

Birthed in the early 20th century for well-to-do gentlemen who wanted to start wearing their timepiece on their wrist, rather than in their pocket. The dress watch is all about simplicity and sophistication; it's sleek rather than encumbered. It's not flashy, and draws attention to itself in a subtle way—for its classiness and how it compliments your get-up.

Signature Features

Size

Typically thin (to make it easy to slip in and out of a dress shirt cuff)

Case

May be circular, rectangular, or square. High-end varieties are typically made from precious metals like gold or silver

Face

Dial displays simple hour indexes (the numbers, or symbols for numbers on the watch face) such as saber-style indexes (those little lines), Roman numerals, or small Arabic numerals

Band

Always leather. Though some companies offer both leather and metal band options with their dress watches, leather is the classic way to go

Complications

Little to none. At the most, a date and/or moon display

When to Wear

As the name implies, you wear a dress watch for dressier, more formal occasions like with a business suit or a tuxedo (though, there's debate as to whether you should ever wear a watch at all with black tie). But you can also wear a dress watch with everything on down to sharp casual. It won't pair well with a t-shirt and jeans.

Examples

  • Cartier Tank
  • Orient Bambino
  • Seiko Kinetic
  • Tsovet SVT-SC38
  • Girard-Perregaux Vintage 1945
  • Montblanc Star Date Automatic

Field Watches

Military Heritage Meets Modern Style

History/Pedigree/Personality

The field watch is the descendant of the WWI "trench watch," which was designed for officers who needed to coordinate attacks, tell time at night, and sport a wristwatch that could withstand the rigors of battle, all while still looking good. Field watches continue to evince a military-esque vibe and are rugged, functional, and stylish all at the same time.

Signature Features

Size

Small to medium. Large watches would just get in the way while you're doing battle in the trenches of war, or business

Case

Typically stainless steel or sometimes titanium (they're supposed to be rugged, after all!). Field watches sometimes include a feature called "hacking seconds" where you can stop the second hand by pulling the crown out; this makes it easier to set the watch to a reference signal, or synchronize it with another

Face

Functional, easy-to-read numerical indexes—typically a white dial and black numbering, or a black dial with white numbering. The hands on field watches often illuminate to enable time checks at night

Band

Leather or canvas strap. Metal is too heavy and would easily scratch with the kind of regular, rough and tumble use a field watch is designed for

Complications

Typically none, or date only

When to Wear

Field watches are quite versatile and can be worn on all kinds of adventures as well as for everyday casual wear or even business casual. So everything from jeans and a t-shirt, to a sports coat and khakis. For men, especially younger guys, who don't get dressed up in a suit very often, a field watch is probably your best bet; its simple, rugged style may best match your personality and lifestyle.

Examples

  • Timex Weekender
  • Lum-Tec Combat B19 Bronze
  • Filson Mackinaw Field
  • Victorinox Infantry
  • Shinola Runwell
  • L.L.Bean Classic Field Watch

Dive Watches

From Ocean Depths to Urban Heights

History/Pedigree/Personality

Next to the field watch, the dive watch is probably one of the most common watch types you see men sporting. And we likely have James Bond to thank for that. Ever since Dr. No, 007 has been sporting a dive watch of some kind or another. In the early Bond films, it was a Rolex Submariner (which is why the dive watch is sometimes called a "submariner"); then Pierce Brosnan turned the Omega dive watch into Bond's timepiece of choice.

As the name suggests, the dive watch was designed for individuals who spend a lot of time in or near water. The first iteration was likely the Rolex Oyster in the 1930s with its hermetically sealed case. In the 1950s, Rolex board member René-Paul Jeanneret wanted a watch useful for diving but still looked good as an everyday timepiece. The Rolex Submariner was born and the standard for dive watches everywhere was set.

Signature Features

A dive watch is first and foremost water resistant. The standard for a dive watch is to be water resistant up to at least 100m, though some keep ticking at even lower depths. Since it's designed to be worn in the water, both the case and the band of dive watches are made from corrosion-resistant metals like stainless steel or titanium. (You'll of course see dive watches made from rubber and silicone, too. They're just not as classy looking.)

Size

Medium

Case

A defining feature of the dive watch is the uni-directional bezel included on the case—it will only rotate counter-clockwise. The rotating bezel allows a diver to know with just a glance at his watch how long he's been underwater. Here's how it works: when the diver enters the water, he rotates the bezel so that the "0" lines up with the minute hand. After that, the minute hand will point to the marking on the bezel that shows how long he's been in the water.

Face

Typically bold, easy-to-read, Arabic numbering, though the 12-hour numerals are often replaced with hash marks, with the seconds displayed in 15-second increments. To protect the watch face while deep underwater, sapphire or hardened mineral glass is used

Band

Metal, and usually longer than other watches' bands, as it was originally designed to fit around bulky dive equipment

Complications

Typically date only

When to Wear

While the dive watch was designed for underwater use, its all-metal casing and band, plus its iconic heritage, make it a suitable wristwatch for versatile everyday wear. You can do it with your sportswear, casual wear, business casual wear, and business formal wear. And if you take your style cues from James Bond, you can even get away with wearing a dive watch with a tux.

Notable Examples

  • Rolex Submariner
  • Omega Seamaster
  • Seiko Diver's Watch
  • Citizen Promaster
  • Steinhart Ocean One
Face

Bold markers, luminous elements, sapphire crystal

Band

Metal bracelet, longer for dive equipment

Complications

Date display standard

When to Wear

Versatile from casual to business formal

Notable Examples

  • Rolex Submariner
  • Omega Seamaster
  • Seiko Diver's Watch
  • Steinhart Ocean One

Pilot Watches

Aviation Excellence on Your Wrist

History/Pedigree/Personality

Wristwatches have been a part of aviation since its inception. In fact, one of the first purpose-specific men's wrist watches ever made was for a pilot friend of Louis Cartier back in 1904 (the iconic Santos watch).

In the decades after, watchmakers built on that original design to make timekeeping easy for pilots taking off into the wild blue yonder, most notably with the addition of a chronograph. Back in the 1930s, the Swiss company Breitling made onboard chronographs for planes in the Royal Air Force so pilots could determine their speed, distance traveled, and fuel consumption. In the 1940s, they decided to put their chronograph on a wristwatch—creating the Breitling Chronomat, as well as the mold for future aviator watches.

Signature Features

Unlike other men's watch styles, the pilot watch doesn't have a firm, distinctive style; the features of timepieces marketed as "aviator watches" can widely vary. That being said, the following are the features that are most common to this type of watch:

Size

Medium to large

Case

May be circular, rectangular, or square. High-end varieties are typically made from precious metals like gold or silver

Face

Designed for easy reading, even in a dark cockpit, pilot watches sport an oversized dial with clean, legible numbers and luminous hands. To make reading the time even easier, the dial is usually black with white numbering

Band

Often, though not always, made of leather. Longer than average, as the band was originally designed to fit around the cuff of a pilot's flight jacket

Complications

Date and sometimes a chronograph

When to Wear

The size and more casual look of pilot watches make them a good fit for more casual get-ups, but not for black tie and formal business wear

Examples

  • Breitling Navitimer
  • Omega Speedmaster
  • Citizen Hawk Navihawk
  • Wingman Watches
  • Laco Type A
  • Bell & Ross WWI-92 Military

Racing Watches

Speed and Precision Combined

History/Pedigree/Personality

Car racing and wristwatches have been linked together since the 1930s. That's because racecar driving relies on accurate timekeeping to measure the outcome of the race. Rolex was one of the first companies to capitalize on this need for accurate timepieces by outfitting top drivers with their famous Oyster watch back in the 1930s.

But it was TAG Heuer that created the standard for racing watches by adding a chronograph and tachymeter—the two defining features of a driving watch. The first TAG Heuer chronographs were made in the 1930s and 1940s for pilots in the Luftwaffe, but by the 1950s and 1960s, racecar drivers were wearing them to measure their speed and distance. TAG Heuer cemented its racing bona fides when actor Steve McQueen wore their Monaco 1133 in the 1971 film, Le Mans.

Signature Features

Size

Medium to large

Case

Designed to withstand the rigors of auto racing, the case is typically made from stainless steel

Face

Large dial (to make room for the chronograph), with clear Arabic numerals. Often includes bright, contrasting colors

Band

Leather or metal

Complications

Chronograph and sometimes the date

When to Wear

Racing watches tend to be flashier looking than dive or pilot watches. Because of their bold look, they're more suitable for casual than formal wear

Notable Examples

  • Autodromo Prototipo
  • TAG Heuer Carrera Calibre 18
  • TAG Heuer Monaco 1133
  • Timex Intelligent Quartz Fly-Back Chronograph
  • Seiko Sportura

Are Expensive Watches Worth Buying?

Once you decide what type and style of watch you want, you'll next need to decide what kind of price range to look in. When you see the $8,000 price tag on a Rolex Submariner or that a TAG Heuer Carrera goes for $4,500, you might ask yourself "Are these watches really worth that much if they tell time just as well as my $10 Casio?"

Well, that's a complicated question to answer and it somewhat depends on what sort of luxury watch we're talking about: mass market luxury watches or luxury luxury watches.

Mass-Market Luxury Watches

One criticism levied at mass-market luxury watches is that the high price is simply the result of clever marketing. Rolex and TAG Heuer can charge thousands of dollars for a watch not due to scarcity (these companies mass-produce their iconic watches by the hundreds of thousands each year), but because they've created the perception in the public through decades of advertising that their watches are rare and worth thousands of dollars.

While it's true that high prices are partly due to branding, there are factors in the watch itself that make it worth more than your $200 department store watch:

  • Fine metals like gold and silver
  • Higher quality glass or sapphire crystal
  • Superior technology and design
  • Better build quality and longevity

With mass-market luxury watches, you're getting a superior watch in terms of build and movement, but you're also paying for the mystique, story, and social cache that come with a brand name.

Luxury Luxury Watches

These are watches that can cost tens of thousands and sometimes hundreds of thousands of dollars. Companies like Audemars Piguet, Blancpain, and IWC exist in this realm.

These watches can command these sorts of prices because they're actually scarce. Oftentimes, just a few hundred or maybe a thousand of a particular watch are made. And this isn't some artificial scarcity. They're often meticulously handcrafted (with the help of machines of course) from the finest materials.

Some of the watches from these companies take months or even years to be finished.

So, yeah, with these types of luxury watches, you're definitely getting what you pay for: high-end craftsmanship.

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Frequently Asked Questions

There are three main watch movements: mechanical, automatic, and quartz. Each offers different benefits in terms of craftsmanship, accuracy, and maintenance. Mechanical watches require hand-winding, automatic watches self-wind through motion, and quartz watches use a battery for precise timekeeping.

Automatic watches are prized for their craftsmanship and heritage, while quartz watches offer unmatched accuracy and affordability. The “better” choice depends on whether you value tradition or practicality.

Complications are extra features in a watch, such as chronographs, moon phases, and calendars. They add functionality and complexity, often making watches more desirable for collectors and enthusiasts.

Dress watches are great for formal wear, field watches for rugged use, dive watches for versatility and water resistance, pilot watches for aviation-inspired style, and racing watches for bold, sporty looks.

Luxury watches can be worth the investment for their build quality, longevity, and brand prestige. While mass-market luxury brands carry premium prices due to branding, true luxury brands offer exceptional craftsmanship and limited production.

Mechanical watches require regular winding, while automatic watches need consistent wear or a watch winder. Both should be serviced every 5–10 years by a professional watchmaker.

Yes, Malani Jewelers proudly offers a curated selection of authentic luxury watches from trusted and renowned brands. Our watches are sourced with a focus on quality, style, and craftsmanship.

Absolutely! Our watch specialists at Malani Jewelers can guide you through the differences between mechanical, automatic, and quartz movements — helping you find a timepiece that matches your lifestyle and budget.

Yes, all timepieces purchased from Malani Jewelers come with official brand warranties and, where applicable, authentication papers to ensure peace of mind and genuine value.

Yes, Malani Jewelers offers professional watch servicing and maintenance for luxury timepieces. Whether you need a battery replacement, cleaning, or a full overhaul, our certified experts can help.

At Malani Jewelers, you're not just buying a watch — you're investing in expert knowledge, trusted authenticity, and dedicated aftercare. Unlike department stores, we specialize in fine timepieces and offer a more personalized, luxury experience.

Yes, we carry a wide range of styles — including sophisticated dress watches perfect for formal wear, and rugged, water-resistant dive watches ideal for everyday versatility and adventure.